Taralli Pugliesi
Trying to make French friends with Italian savoury snacks.
This week I enjoyed making taralli; small savoury ring-shaped biscuits with origins rooted in Southern Italy. Beyond Italy, you’ll find any number of varieties of taralli in Italian delis and larger supermarkets, yet they’re pretty easy to make at home and keep for a couple of weeks in an airtight container.
The process is easy, but it requires a little time and patience. It’s a perfect task for a few people huddled around the kitchen table or while listening to your favourite audiobook or podcast. They’re not difficult to shape and they don’t have to be perfect. I sometimes make up the shape as I go along!
A brief history
Taralli's history is a captivating journey through the centuries, with its origins traced to the southern Italian regions of Puglia, Calabria, and Campania. The timeframe is debated (several sources cite 400 AD during the period of famine) but it’s believed that they were first made by poor workers who wanted to make use of the scraps of dough. Another source suggests that a hungry mother created the first Pugliese tarallo using simple ingredients she had at her disposal: flour, extra virgin olive oil, salt, and white wine.
Over time, each region took on their version of taralli which can vary in shape and seasonings. In Puglia, fennel-flavoured taralli are most common, offering a taste of the region's culinary identity. Meanwhile, in Calabria, a touch of heat is added with red pepper flakes, creating a sensory experience that reflects the diverse flavours found throughout the Italian peninsula.
A basic taralli dough comprised of flour, water or white wine and olive oil, forms the foundation and the season/spice is added to this. The dough is shaped into small rings, and subjected to a double-cooking process: boiled briefly followed by some time in the oven. This method ensures the characteristic crunch that defines taralli.
Taralli are a staple at gatherings, celebrations, and everyday life. I took my batch to a friend’s birthday party this weekend. They are a very versatile snack, finding themselves at home alongside a glass of wine, a plate of cheese, or a selection of cured meats. I think they’ll be great in the summer for our late-evening dinners and picnics by the lake.
Before starting this recipe, I would read the notes section at the very end for some additional points and methods to make the process easier.
Recipe
500g strong white bread flour
10g salt
1tsp fennel seeds (or your chosen infusion)
125ml olive oil
200ml dry white wine (or water)
Water (for boiling)
Method
In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, salt, and fennel seeds (or your season of choice). Form a well in the middle of your dry ingredients and pour in the olive oil and white wine. Mix until a dough forms.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 10 minutes, or until it becomes smooth and elastic. Allow to rest for 30 minutes in a covered bowl or container.
Divide the dough into small portions, approx. 10g each. Roll out each piece into a sausage approx. 10 cm long. Wrap the piece around two fingers to form a circle and gently pinch into place.
Preheat your oven to 180°C (fan) / 350°F / Gas Mark 4.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a handful of taralli at a time to the boiling water.
Once the taralli float to the surface, let them boil for an additional 1-2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the boiled taralli to a clean kitchen towel to absorb the excess water. Leave for a few minutes before placing them on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
Bake in the preheated oven for about 25-30 minutes or until a light golden brown. Allow the taralli to cool completely on a wire rack before serving.
Notes
This recipe was taken from Gennaro Contaldo’s book, Gennaro’s Italian Bakery. I looked up the recipe in other books and sites and the type of flour used can vary. You can use Italian 00, all-purpose or plain flour also.
Why not try splitting your dough into two portions before adding two varieties of seasoning? For this batch, I used fennel and Herbes de Provence (when in France…). You could try any number of dried herbs and spices. Rosemary would work well. I once tried to use olives, the semi-dried variety, but unless you chop them extremely fine, they’re too cumbersome for the petit dough shapes.
The recipe above makes two trays of taralli (about 70) and might require you to process them in two batches. Halving the recipe works out to about a large oven tray.
Try not to overcrowd the tray in the oven otherwise, you may end up with an uneven colour.
You can substitute the volume of wine for water but you’ll lose a little bit of flavour.
A system of cutting, weighing and shaping a dozen or so taralli at a time works best for me. Keep the rest of the dough covered.